After the clank-boom-steam of ever moving Amritsar, the group found repose in the humble atmosphere of Mcleod Ganj. Nestled in the Himalayas, Mcleod is marvelously scenic, especially the upper portion, which offered us some lovely walks and fine views. Known for being the home of H.H. The 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile, it radiates a certain warmth through it’s thoroughly Tibetan culture. Originally established in the mid 1850’s as a British military post, it remained a backwater town until 1960, when the Dali Lama and his entourage fled Tibet, following the Chinese invasion. It was here they found solace in this misty mountain town, escaping the horrendous acts of the Chinese government.
Since the 1950’s, Mcleod Ganj has become a major center for the study of Buddhism. Many of us each day climbed the mountain up to Tushita Meditation Centre, where we would meditate on and receive Dharma talks regarding life, death, karma, awareness, attachments and impermanence. There are all sorts of holistic courses and activities offered and we all were set up with internships that sparked our interest. From Tibetan cooking and massage to jewelry making and sitar–and of course, a whole lot of yoga–we did it all. Often in the afternoon, a few of us would head down to the local Japanese restaurant where English conversation courses were held–we’d simply share stories and chat with locals, learning about various cultural histories and more. One day we took a bus down to lower Dharamshala where we had the honor of being blessed by the Karmapa with a little red bracelet. The Karmapa is the head of the Karma Kagyu, one of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism and an important religious figure in Tibetan history.
Outside the Karmapa’s temple in lower Dharamshala.
Best of all though, each of us stayed individually in a Tibetan home stay for the week. There’s really something to admire about a family of 5 (or more!) all sharing the same, tiny living space. The atmosphere was welcoming, simplistic and as our contact Neema La said, “aggressively hospitable.” This way of living creates a very different dynamic, a dynamic that was very new and exciting for most of us. By the end of the week, we’d become so close to our families, literally and otherwise, that many were sad to leave. They took us in as one of our own and I can say with confidence that the bonds formed and times shared there will not soon be forgotten.
Outside our contacts cafe, “JJI Exile Brothers,” preparing to meet our homestay families.
Tenzin’s massage parlour, in all it’s glory.
Certainly, we’ve all seen or heard the phrase “Free Tibet” at some point in our lives. But do we know the whole story? I didn’t until coming here.
Once an autonomous country, Tibet was brutally invaded by China due to their claims that Tibet had always a Chinese province. China’s actions in Tibet over the past 50 years have created a climate of fear that still continues today—torture and imprisonment for peaceful protest, and economic plans that discriminate against Tibetans, threatening their unique identity. Constantly fleeing and being pushed out, there are 2.5 million Tibetans in Tibet and 7.5 million Chinese, with more continually moving in at an alarming rate.
Human rights conditions in Tibet remain extremely poor. Under the Chinese occupation, the Tibetan people are denied most rights guaranteed in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights including the rights to self-determination, freedom of speech, assembly, movement, expression and travel. Tibetans are not even allowed to bear pictures of or show support to their religious leader, the Dalai Lama.
We had the opportunity to meet with local Tibet freedom fighter, Lhasang Tsering and genocide survivor, monk, Ven Bagdro. Each of them told us their stories of unimaginable horrors and atrocious acts committed by the Chinese government–their cultural genocide of Tibet–as well as what we can do to try and better the situation. Since his freedom, under the request of the Dalai Lama, Bagdro has become an international emissary for social justice and evolutionary change – he provides reconciliation for the people of Tibet. On the other hand, Tsering says the only way to free Tibet is by taking direct action against the Chinese people. Violence to end violence? Or unconditional love and forgiveness towards your captors and torturers? Either way, we can only hope for peace and happiness for the Tibetan people and for some way to sustain their culture–a beautiful, colorful, unique and inspiring culture–whether it is in or out of Tibet.
All in all, even through learning the sad truth and fate of Tibet, our time in Mcleod Ganj was a week well spent. To sum it all up, I can only say one thing: Momo’s are delicious.
Tashi Delek, Namaste, Dhanyavad, Thujheche,
-Max
The sun sinks behind “Little Lhasa” as we celebrate Hannah G-L’s birthday.
P.S. Watch these movies to learn more about the occupation of Tibet. They’re both really great.
Tibet: Call of the Snow Lion
10 Questions for the Dalai Lama