We spent a peaceful 24 hours in Queenstown getting last minute things for our planned trek to Kepler near Te Anu. Then We got the news that due to the recent snowfall Kepler was impassable and they weren’t allowing anyone to start the trek. Since we only had a limited amount of time for our free travel we made a snap decision to attempt to change all of our plans and hike the Milford Trek which we had considered doing instead but had ruled out because of cost differences. So a small group of us ran all over Queenstown trying to cancel our bookings for the huts we would have stayed in on Kepler, for all the transportation we needed to get to and from Kepler. Then we had to book new huts on Milford which we did against all odds considering the fact that there were only 12 beds available and we had 13 people. But we prevailed and got the tickets as well as booking two boat rides and multiple buses to get to the start of the trek.
So, a little shocked at our small miracle and that we had needed it in the first place, we woke up bright and early on Halloween morning and set off to start our hike with our giant backpacks full of food for the week as well as clothes and sleeping bags. We took a beautiful ferry ride from Te Anu Downs across a large lake surrounded by snow covered mountains to the start of the trek. Since it was Halloween we had decided to get each other costumes and dress up, then hike in our costumes. The first day took us about 5 kilometers through the mist and forest to the first hut where we spent an enjoyable first night making friends with the other 28 people who were hiking with us.
The second day of Milford is estimated to take about 5-6 hours, but you’re also supposed to train for 2 months before you set out. We took a bit longer than 6 hours as a whole group but we just had that much more time to enjoy the scenery of the trail named ‘the greatest walk in the world’. That day took us through a long valley; sometimes walking through lush rainforests or wading through streams. The mountains surrounding us were shrouded in mists that made them disappear into the cloudy sky above, only broken by the hundreds of waterfalls running down their sides from the melting snow at their peaks. For the last hour or so of the hiking that day the trail began to gently slope upward and into the greenery. The sun made a surprise appearance for a few hours but then retreated again leaving us in the rain once more.
The third (and probably hardest day) was the steep climb up to McKinnon pass. We were unsure if we would even be making the climb that day because every other group that had done the trek so far in the season had had to be helicoptered over due to potential avalanches. But luckily we were told that the trail was safe and we walked, and in some cases crawled, up the 11 switch backs to the freezing top of the pass where we sheltered from the cold and rain in a small hut for about an hour drinking coffee and hot chocolate. By the time we left the hut and started walking again the weather had cleared up slightly. the walk down the mountain was generally worse for the group than the way up. As many of us have knee issues (especially Katie who, since her knee wasn’t fully healed from 2 weeks earlier, was still in a lot of pain) the descent was rough and slow. The scenery was again changing all the time. We had some great views of surrounding mountains and a lot of waterfalls as well as more lush almost jungle-like forests. A small group took the short path that branched off from the trek and went to Sutherland Falls, the tallest waterfall in New Zealand. that night at the hut ( the last one of the trek) we celebrated Francesca’s 20th birthday with s’mores.
The last leg of the trek brought us through another valley along lakes and rivers. The plant life was very tropical looking and slightly reminiscent of an Indiana Jones movie. The whole day was more relaxed and for the last few hours we got more sunshine which lit up the forest beautifully. the Milford Trek ends at Sandfly Point on Milford sound. After a quick dip in the icy water for a couple of us and once everyone had gotten to the point we took 3 trips across to Milford Sound in a small boat that Matt and Trent both got the chance to drive themselves.
When we Woke up in Milford Sound the next day we heard the news that a snow storm was coming in and all the hikers on the Milford trek were being airlifted out and no one since our group had been able to do the full trek. since we had plenty of time in the town and it only consisted of a ferry and bus terminal and a cafe and a bar we decided to take a cruise on the beautiful Milford Sound where we went all around the Sound and saw seals and penguins and amazing waterfalls as well as the Tasman Sea. The few who were brave enough to be battered by the wind and hail and spray spent the cruise on the top deck, in the open weather. The bus ride back to Queenstown for our last night in New Zealand was long but beautiful and we were surprised about 30 minutes into it when snow began to fall heavily even though it was nearly summertime in the southern hemisphere. It was an interesting end to our amazing time in New Zealand.
Peace and Kiwis
Ruby