Namaste friends and family!
Erin here, blogging to catch you up on our many adventures since the trek!
After bidding farewell to our trekking guide, Dendu, and the cooks and porters who helped us along the way, we spent a night in Yuksom, the starting point of our trek. The next morning, we ate breakfast at the hotel before boarding a jeep to Darjeeling, a city known for its tea plantations and picturesque views of the Himalayas. The 4-hour drive from Yuksom was made a bit longer when one of the jeep’s tires blew out! Thankfully, we were traveling on flat terrain and not the standard rocky, cliff-like surfaces found in the hills of Sikkim, so we were able to get going again without too much trouble.
Upon our arrival in Darjeeling, we discovered that there was a mistake with our guest house booking, so Ole and I scrambled to find new accommodations. After we made reservations at a cozy place just up the street, the group settled in and went to dinner, hungry after a long day of travel! One thing that we discovered quickly in Darjeeling is that the street food is not only cheaper than restaurant meals, but it is also considerably more delicious! After a disappointing dinner at a local restaurant, we all opted for egg rolls made by a sweet, elderly couple who ran a stand in the center of the main square. Most of their cuisine cost anywhere between 25-35 rupees (equivalent to about 60 cents), a great bargain by any standard! By the end of our weekend stay, the couple recognized each of us and even knew some of our favorite meals, especially Jake and his off-menu creation, the chicken-egg bun, of which he continues to be quite proud.
Over the next two days, we had plenty of free time to explore Darjeeling on our own. For many, this meant shopping, catching up on email and laundry, and sampling more street food! Our guest house was roughly a 10-minute walk from many shops, stalls, and cafes, so we took advantage of the opportunity to purchase souvenirs and gifts, ranging from jewelry to books to knives to the famous tea from the hills of Darjeeling. During our stay, we also met up with Mike, the program director for our India trip, and it was great to meet him and catch up on our travels, as well as hear about the exciting plans ahead of us! One evening, on Mike’s recommendation, a few of us went to see the film Ra One, a huge hit in Indian theaters. Those who saw the movie (Cobie, Mariah, Bri R., Ole & Simone), were thoroughly impressed by the action scenes, dance numbers and catchy songs, and they all agreed that it was a much better film than Hum Tum Shabana, our Varanasi cinema experience. I think that the fact that they didn’t want to leave at intermission certainly says something!
After two days, we were sad to leave Darjeeling, as it was really a quaint, friendly place and an excellent combination of the Himalayan tranquility we had become accustomed to and the bustling city life that we needed to remember. From Darjeeling, we took a jeep to Siliguri, arriving in the evening, and spent the night there. The next morning (November 1st), we drove to Bagdogra in time for a 10:30 AM flight to Delhi. Upon our arrival, we settled in at a guest house in Paharganj, a spot you may remember as the site of our orientation weekend scavenger hunt! We all quickly observed that Delhi didn’t seem nearly as overwhelming or confusing as it was back in September. Ben reminisced about his memories of Paharganj as a blur of color, noise and panic, none of which seemed as apparent this time around. The noise was less noticeable, the rickshaw drivers and street vendors seemed less aggressive, and I think we were simply more comfortable and confident in India. It’s always nice to see progress as a traveler, to feel like you’re learning and growing, and I think that a trip back to Delhi just about halfway through our Indian journey was an awesome indicator of how far we’ve come 🙂
The next day, we had quite an adventure while trying to book a bus to Rishikesh… After a 20-minute walk to the metro (lugging our heavy bags all the way), a train ride to Kashmere Gate, haggling to some time with little success, and another crowded, 40-minute bus ride to a different bus station, we finally found a vehicle within our budget that would take us where we needed. Much of the difficulty this time of year with regards to transportation stems from the fact that November tends to be the beginning of India’s biggest tourist season. As part of our weekly group jobs, we take turns being responsible for booking accommodation and transportation, and I think that Jake and I, who had those jobs that week, got a good taste of the hassles that can arise as a traveler in an incredibly busy atmosphere!
On the evening of November 2nd, we arrived in Rishikesh, settled in at the Bhandari Swiss Cottage, and had a good night’s sleep! The next day, we had free time in Rishikesh to explore as we pleased. Mariah and Cobie treated themselves to fantastic massages of the ayurvedic and Thai varieties; Kat and Bri “ate, ate, ate” (Bri’s words), and browsed at a local bookstore; Briana and I went to Lakshman Jhula, the heart of town, and were blessed by a monkey god while wandering the streets; Jake went into town and then took a long walk to the Ganges River, ending up in front of the ashram that would be our home for the next week; Ben journeyed to the site where The Beatles stayed during their famous 1968 trip to Rishikesh to play his guitar; Simone planned her post-India travels to Thailand, and Ole explored the area around the river!
The following morning, we traveled to Phool Chatti Ashram (www.phoolchattiyoga.com), a spiritual center about 5km from the bustling center of town, where we were to set to begin a 7-day yoga and meditation retreat. At the ashram, we were introduced to Randy, the program coordinator, Lalita-ji, our yoga teacher and a native of Bodhgaya (our home in early October!), and Thor, our 21-year-old meditation leader from San Francisco, who was a great inspiration to us all week.
During our stay at the ashram, we had a schedule that kept us busy from 5:30 AM until around 9 PM! One of the main rules there was “the silence,” a meditative state of quiet that was mandatory from 9:30 PM until after lunch the next day. This meant no whispering, playing or listening to music, and even no written communication during that time. The staff at the ashram emphasized that we should view the silence as an opportunity for reflection and meditative thought, and although some of us struggled with the lack of communication, ultimately I think it was a great lesson for all of us. Cobie and I both agreed that it helped us think about choosing our words carefully, and that talking can serve as a great distraction, but that it can also be beneficial to more thoughtfully consider the impact of what we say.
Each morning at the ashram we were awoken at 5:30 AM by a gong ringing in the central courtyard. At 6 AM, our group (there were 26 other travelers from Estonia, France, England, Germany, and other countries participating in the program with us), met in the yoga hall for a silent meditation. This was followed by mantra chanting, yogic cleansing (similar to a neti pot nasal cleansing with warm water and salts), pranayama (breathing techniques), and roughly an hour and a half of hatha yoga. Our morning yoga classes were a bit gentler than the afternoon sessions, but still provided a great workout and a fun opportunity for each of us to become a bit more flexible! We all really enjoyed our teacher, Lalita-ji, (who was at times frighteningly flexible), and learned many new asanas (exercises) from her throughout the week.
After yoga, we would all meet on the sunny rooftop for breakfast! Even during times when conversation was allowed, all meals were eaten in silence to help with digestion. After being served, we would wait until the entire group had received their food, then Lalita-ji would say a blessing and it was time to eat! Breakfast typically consisted of chai, porridge, fruit, and a noodle dish, always a yummy way to start our day 🙂 At 10 AM, the group practiced karma yoga, which isn’t a physical activity, but rather a practice of selfless action where everyone worked to help clean the ashram. Afterwards, at around 10:30, the group would meet for a meditative walk. We had the opportunity to hike up to a beautiful waterfall one day, and also traveled to a small beach on the Ganges River where we were able to swim and bathe. The portion of the Ganges that runs through Rishikesh is incredibly close to the source, so it is clean and refreshing! We had beautiful weather for the whole week, and it was really nice to get outside of the ashram and experience nature in peace.
Lunch was served at 12:30 everyday, with chai on the rooftop afterwards. Meals typically consisted of a cooked vegetable mix eaten with chapati (a round, flat bread), dal (lentils), rice, curd (yogurt), and raw vegetables. It was nice to get back into a routine of eating Indian food every day, and at the end of the week most of the group agreed that they were newly appreciative of the cuisine! After lunch, we were able to enjoy the freedom of conversation for the first time all day, although some of us found ourselves speaking a bit less than usual after practicing silence for many hours. Our only real free time was between 1-3 PM, where we had the opportunity to shower (with hot water!!), nap, play cards, paint, journal, and explore around the Ganges. The entire group would meet again at 3 PM for discussion and lecture sessions where we learned about ashram life, principles of the yogic path, and the eight branches of yoga. Although questions were encouraged, the ashram staff often answered our queries with encouragement to meditate on our thoughts and discover a meaning for ourselves. While this was frustrating for some of us who were perhaps searching for more concrete information, it was also an interesting introduction to Eastern philosophy and the way that spirituality is practiced in India.
Our afternoon finished up with ashtanga yoga, a more intense practice, which often left me sore but rejuvenated! Afterwards we had a few more breathing exercises before meeting in the courtyard for temple puja, a nightly ritual where offerings are given to Hindu gods. At around 6:15 PM, we gathered again as a group to sing bhajans, Hindu devotional music. This part of the program was a favorite for many, as the loud, heartfelt chanting and tambourine-playing created a fun and uplifting atmosphere within the group. A few of us copied down the lyrics to the kirtan (sacred songs), so you can be sure to hear some of them once we’re home! 🙂 As a side note, Mariah is truly a tambourine GODDESS, and her musical passion during the bhajans inspired all who were staying at the ashram. After singing, we met for dinner, followed by a guided meditation at 8:30 PM. We practiced meditation over the week in a few different ways: by focusing on our breathing, our third eye, chanting a mantra, and listening to spiritual music. Many agreed that the guided meditations were easier to sit through, as we were given something a bit more specific and concrete to focus on. Bedtime came at around 9:30 for most of us, and we were all grateful for the warm, comfortable beds after our long and busy days!
Some personal reflections from our time at the ashram…
-Simone: Appreciated the lesson from a “sneaky Buddha,” which she described as a person who comes into your life and challenges or frustrates you, but ultimately helps you to learn a lesson in compassion as you deal with the aggravation 🙂
-Ole: “The mystery of life is not a problem to be solved but a reality to be experienced.” (George Bernard Shaw)
-Jake: Enjoyed his time at the ashram, though sometimes it was tough, but he saw an improvement and thought it was an interesting experienced. He particularly liked the yoga and guided meditation!
-Ben: Interested by the concept that you are not your thoughts. This allowed him to think about how he defines himself, and to think that perhaps music more deeply reflects his feelings on spirituality.
-Bri R.: Learned alot about herself in places that she didn’t know existed, without even realizing it! Thought it was an awesome experience and the people were absolutely amazing.
-Briana & Cobie: Ashram life is in line with prison life in the best way possible. On the flip side, God is everything…or is it?
-Erin: Appreciated the quiet meditative walks and was inspired by bathing in the Ganges. Loved seeing progress during the yoga classes, and hopes to continue the practice back home!
-Mariah: Learned her new favorite exercise – the lotus push-up 🙂
That’s all for now! With under 4 weeks to go, we’re starting to have to think about the reality of coming home. We miss and love you all, and we’ll be with you before you know it!
Thanks for reading! We’ll update with pictures ASAP 🙂
Love, Erin