On Tuesday April 12th we said so long to the beautiful Playa and Parque Maderas and drove to Grenada to kick off our week of free-travel. This week was different than the rest of our trip in that the students decided where we go and arrange the accommodations, transportation, and other logistics to make things happen. We were led by Kaile’a, Lukas, and Emily and they did an amazing job, as for the most part everything went smoothly and we all had a blast. When we got to Grenada, our hostel didn’t have our reservation (typical of traveling and hostels around the world), but they found room for us in the end. However, soon after getting settled, Lukas, Peter, Jared and Kaile’a went back to their room to find their backpacks swimming in inches of water that was pouring out of a hole in the toilet. They changed rooms and luckily we had no further mishaps at the hostel. Over the next two days, we explored the city – eating local and street food as well as some western fare, buying gifts for friends and family back home, taking pictures, and as usual getting lost in the open air markets (mercados) and thrift stores that line the street.
Grenada used to be the capital of Nicaragua, but when the government moved to Managua, the city slowed down and people relaxed into their rocking chairs surrounded by the beautiful colonial architecture of historic churches and government buildings. At the same time, wealth disparities were ever-present. It was more visible on the city outskirts where houses lose their courtyards, and move back from the street to gain front yards, livestock, and chain-link fences. Within the city blocks and the Parque Central, we saw children sniffing glue to kill their hunger, and people hawking hammocks or selling handmaid jewelry for a living. Like the other cities we have visited and gotten to know, poverty runs in an undercurrent behind awe-inspiring churches, waiters in ties, and knock-off Hollister or ´Boy Ban´ sunglasses styles.
One of my favorite moments in Grenada was when Montana and I were walking back from the post office and stumbled upon a set of artist studios where teachers and university students were painting and printing lithographs, linocuts, and woodblock pieces. I had found an art gallery and talked to a man who was a teacher the day before, so at the studios I saw him from the street and he invited us in to look around. Much of the paper they were using was recycled or made from coconut bark. The prints depicted the artists’ takes on traditional and modern Nicaraguan life. It was a treat to get to see. All in all, we were happy to visit a final Nicaraguan city before heading to Costa Rica.
On Thursday we took a four hour ferry ride across Lake Nicaragua (you can even see it on a map of the globe) to the volcanic island of Ometepe. Our hotel sat in the saddle of the two volcanoes – Conception and Maderas. On our first full day there, we walked along the lake beach for a long time, got some typical Nica food for lunch, and continued to walk along the road to Ojo de Agua, a stream contained in swimming pools. Helena learned to blow bubbles underwater, and Peter, Montana and Jared were at their usual ridiculous antics, this time in the water. That night as it was Jackie’s 26th birthday, we celebrated with cake and ice cream (delish), a giant card, and smashing a piñata of Ariel the Little Mermaid. The next day half the group went kayaking, and the other half, horseback riding. I ended up bro-ing it out with all of the guys in ocean kayaks, paddling along the coast over supposedly bull shark infested waters. We reached a sheltered river tributary and saw many types of birds and floating plants going up and down the tributary’s many curves. We anticipated seeing crocodiles but unfortunately there were too many people on the river that day (Or, more likely, all of the boys’ splashing and racing around scared them off). Meanwhile, the rest of the women were riding horses around the island. Helena showed everyone up with her English riding skills, and they were all excited that they got to gallop. That night, our whole group was sunburned or sore or both.
The following day was Palm Sunday and our most complicated travel day. We drove by Catholic processions in the streets on the way to the ferry, and saw many people get off the boat, as Ometepe is a popular place to spend Semana Santa (Easter Week – in Nicaragua Thursday through Sunday is a paid vacation for the whole country). After the ferry and a short taxi ride, we arrived at the boarder to cross by foot into Costa Rica. The border itself is a kilometer long, full of various passport checkpoints and snaking colorful lines of people waiting with their shopping items. It took us less than an hour to be officially into Costa Rica, but for people going into Nicaragua for Semana Santa or on busier days, it can take up to 10 hours of waiting under the hot sun to complete the crossing. Sweaty and tired, we found a bus that took us to Liberia in the Guanacaste region. After spending a day there, we were off to the Nicoya Peninsula for our turtle project! Read Peter’s entry below to find out how that was..It was really fun.
Now we are in the city of San Jose for a few days before flying to Roatan. It’s really crazy to think that we will be going back to the States in 10 days! Parents: be aware that your child will be going through culture shock for the first week or two back. We are definitely excited to see you, but sad to bid farewell to this group that has become a family and all of our adventures in Central America. I know I will go through withdrawal to not see these best friends very often anymore. But I do not want to end on a sad note, as we still have so much to see and experience here and in the rest of life.
Happy Easter and Passover to you all, I hope the day is filled with family and friends and relaxing!
Much love, especially to my parents and Aldis and Cianan : )
